What hit the runway
Four things to note.
- Black everywhere. In Paris, Balenciaga, under Pierpaolo Piccioli, showed an almost all-dark collection, and Tom Ford alternated total black with white.
- Leather. Black at Mugler, Alberta Ferretti, Ferragamo and Balmain; coloured coats at Celine and Balenciaga. In Milan it is one of the season's stars.
- Sheer. PVC skirts at Tom Ford, mesh skirts at Victoria Beckham, organza over bermuda shorts at Miu Miu. The idea is layering: you see what's underneath.
- Le smoking. Satin lapels at Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello; in Milan, suits with broad shoulders.
And colour? It's there: red, purple, burnt orange and camel are among the recurring tones, and checks are back, from Chanel to Dior. Silhouettes get slimmer, with slim trousers and skirts.
How to wear it: three looks
One rule: one star at a time. If the leather shines, everything else stays quiet.
- Day. Black leather jacket, ribbed knit and slim trousers. Want a little pattern? Add a checked scarf.
- Evening. Long black dress with velvet or silk draping. One shot of colour: red, among the recurring tones in Milan.
- Gala. Le smoking for women: a jacket with strong shoulders and satin lapels, high-waisted trousers and a sheer shirt underneath.
Hair and makeup
With outfits like these, the rest stays light. On the runways, the “clean girl” look, with sleek buns and flawless hair, is giving way to tousled hair, just-out-of-bed style. Makeup stays soft and minimal.
In practice: loose waves, a natural base and one strong point, whether it's the outfit or a bold lipstick.
